All posts tagged: parfums

Puredistance: Parfums with excellent sillage

When you have creatives at the helm of a fragrance label – instead of shrewd marketers out to make a quick buck – you get a nice range of standout perfumes. At Puredistance, the scents are noteworthy for their long-lasting sillage due to an exceptionally high content of perfume oil. All seven Parfum de Extrait in the range contain between 25 and 38 per cent of perfume, “hence the higher cost and prices”, explains the brand’s founder Jan Ewoud Vos. His rationale for using so much perfume oil in the juices: they fuse with the skin’s natural scent for longer. Prices of Puredistance parfums start from 175 euros for 17.5ml. Pick a crystal and 24 carat gold flacon and prices go up to 1,890 euros for 17.5ml. “As I give a perfumer a brief, I also give them an unlimited budget and time,” says Vos, who is also a photographer. This freedom is rare in the tightly-controlled perfume industry where profit margins rule the day. For that reason, when Vos announced in 2007 that he …

Aesop Hwyl EDP

The latest fragrance from Aesop is an olfactory hideaway from the steeliness of urban landscapes. One or two (or three) pumps of Hwyl will spirit your imagination away to a deep Hinoki (cypress) forest with its earthy, smokey incense layers with a hint of spice and dried citrus. Cypress, frankincense, vetiver. An intense EDP that is as perfect on cashmere as it would be on crisp linen. Hwyl is the third fragrance in Aesop’s stable, after Marrakesh Intense and Tacit. Aesop collaborated with Barnabé Fillion, who developed Marrakesh Intense in 2014. For inspiration, Barnabe took a walk amongst 300 year old Hiba trees in an ancient Japanese forest. And now you have that moment bottled in Hwyl on your dresser. Landscape photos: Aesop

Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia

Creative genius Alessandro Michele had a hand in this latest concoction from Gucci.  Like his fashion creations for the label, this juice is colourful, shiny, and poppy.  It still has the signature Gucci sexy muskiness, but lighter, brighter, fruitier, more sparkling, fresher.  Like a glass of rose at the hippest party in town. The notes: opens with fruity red berries, white floral gardenia at its heart; winds down with patchouli and brown sugar. Sillage is moderate, and relatively long-lasting. 

Top picks from escentials for Holiday 2016

unnamed, Byredo To mark the 10th anniversary of the Swedish perfume house, its founder Ben Gorham decided on offering its fans a bottle of juice that is open to interpretation. A concoction of  pink pepper notes, gin accord, orris stem, violet, moss and fir balsam. “The names of the BYREDO fragrances often describe the origin of an idea, a thought that leads to a brief presented to the perfumer. With fragrance being completely subjective these names spark the imagination of the perfumer and finally the customer. They each experience the fragrance even before they smell the ingredients in the bottle. We still find it fascinating that people interpret our fragrances in so many ways. To celebrate BYREDO’s 10 year anniversary we created an unnamed fragrance that allows our customers to choose a name meaningful to them, and customize the label of their bottle.” -Ben Gorham The festive fir tree: A lush, pine-laden forest, woody tones of resin, cedar and patchouli       3. A la Rose set, Maison Francis Kurkdjian The A la Rose EDP – …

Gucci Guilty Platinum

Ever since Alessandro Michele took over the reins at Gucci as its creative director, the label has been on a roll. Churning out gorgeous clothing, accessories, bags and shoes with an interesting vintage patina, accents and details. Unfortunately, most fashion labels and their corresponding perfumes are often not the brainchild of the designer. Still, I was keen to find out how the shiny new Gucci scents fair. Especially when they have been inspired by Michele’s sartorial work. Like most Gucci perfume launches, the Platinum range comes in a pair. My thoughts on the Gucci Guilty Platinum EDT: Nothing like the original Gucci Guilty, it is a warm, fruity-floral (if such a thing were possible). Gucci says: “Top notes – geranium and pink pepper; heart notes – lilac and peach; base notes – amber and patchouli” My thoughts on the Gucci Guilty Platinum Pour Homme EDT: Fresh, citrusy, a whiff of pine needles, warm. This may be made for men, but I’d wear it. This juice turns a little sweet on my skin, which gives it …

Louis Vuitton’s first fragrances in 70 years: Les Parfums Louis Vuitton collection

Luxury trunk-and-luggage maker Louis Vuitton created its first parfums – Je, Tu, Ii (I, You, He), and Eau De Voyage – in the 1920s. They were made to fill the beautiful crystal flacons that came with Louis Vuitton’s sturdy trunks. But the brand’s perfume ambitions were curtailed during the wartimes of the 1940s. Fast forward to 2016 Fall, Louis Vuitton will be introducing seven new scents under its Les Parfums collection. Just like the perfume houses of Chanel ( helmed by Olivier Pole, son of the legendary Jacques Polge), Dior (Francois Demachy), and Hermes (the very famous Jean-Claude Ellena), Louis Vuitton will have its own in-house perfumer. This ensures that its scents have an air of exclusivity and signature, that keep them distinct from the regular run-of-the-mill perfumes. Most of the juices from other luxury labels are usually made by the oft-nameless perfumers in the flavours and fragrance conglomerates such as Firmenich, Givaudan, and IFF. To re-embark on its olfactory journey, Louis Vuitton hired Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. A native of Grasse – the age-old French capital of …

Gucci Bamboo Eau de Toilette

Says Gucci: “The new scent pulsates with the original fragrance’s inspiration: bamboo, one of the House’s most celebrated and elegant design signatures, and its references in the Gucci woman. The rich woody floral finds new edge with a bright mandarin note. Lighter than the original essence, Gucci Bamboo Eau de Toilette offers alluring insight into the Gucci woman’s sensual, romantic side.” Says me:  A pretty fruity-floral; bright, fresh, a little sparkly, a hint of clean linen, peachy, slightly sweet. An everyday scent. 

Armani Code Profumo

This new Pour Homme is made to be worn with a sleek tux. Giorgio Armani Parfums: “Alluring, powerful, fiery, the classic Code base of tonka bean has been amplified by a sensual woody-ambery accord and notes of burnt styrax wood.  …The green mandarin essence, crisp green apple and cardamom essence…the freshness continues with aromatic lavender notes and nutmeg essence coloured by … orange blossom at its heart…Warmed by tonka bean absolute with its accents of tobacco…enveloped in a suggestive woody-ambery accord. The supple leather of notes of the styrax essence meld … with praline sweetness.”    My thoughts: I did not get a single whiff of freshness. What hit me immediately is a heavy tonka bean, and ambery sweetness. With just the slightest hint of tobacco.  This eau de parfum is not made for the faint-hearted man; you would need enough confidence and sophistication to wear it. And for sure, it is made to be worn with at least a shirt and pants. This is not your T-shirt and jeans fragrance. And because this perfume …

Hugo Boss Woman Extreme

To be honest, I don’t usually like the bottled juices of run-of-the-mill luxury labels. They pretty much all smell the same if you ask me. Just because the marketers only want the perfumers to make tried-and-tested accords that they know (or think) will sell, based on past successful blockbusters. Anyway back to Hugo Boss’ latest offering.  It is actually quite good for a regular department store juice. An EDP, here’s what it says on the box: “A boost of freshness and feminity where floral notes collide with revitalising black tea.  Top notes: boosted boysenberry and Himalayan red grass Heart notes: revitalising black tea and jasmine Base notes: feminine osmanthus” — My thoughts: Light and youthful floral with a berry accord that is not sickly saccharine sweet. Probably because a hint of the tea accord lends it some earthiness. Smells better when sprayed on clothes; relatively long-lasting.

How to wear scents

Spritz and go? A no-brainer right? Not really.     There is an art and science to wearing scents. Especially in humid weather.  Here’s what to note: 💦 Slathering on unscented body lotions first to help a perfume “stick” is one way. But in this hot and humid weather, body creams might be the last thing you want to wear.  An alternative is to let the scent “cling” elsewhere, such as your clothes and hair.  I find that scents hardly last all day on my skin – unless it is super duper expensive such as Frederic Malle’s potions.  A point to note though: spritz scents onto clothes from an arm’s length away. So only tiny droplets settle on your dress or blouse, not a direct spray that leaves behind a splotch that is inpossible to remove (from silks especially). 💦 Imagine the warm spots of your skin as “diffusers”. They are keep the scent molecules wafting towards your nose and others’. 💦 Sprtiz, dab, press; but don’t rub on perfumes. The scent molecules should settle on …